Mittwoch, 16. November 2022

Universal Genève Compax from 1941, 46mm -----> rare silver satin big radium dial by Stern

 Dear watch aficionado.

Here a nice and rare example of a Universal Genève Compax from 1941 in a 46mm case and with the rare silver satin big radium dial by Cadran Stern:

The backside of this original, untouched dial bears the punch mark and code of the dial manufacturer Stern Frères, a master dial maker of the period, famous for their quality and magic of their dials due to little, yet important details in manufacturer. The blank plate is silver galvanized with a vertical satin finish. The recessed subdials are decorated with a fine snailing done by hand with a laze. The plate is covered with a mat transparent lacquer called "sapon" (only on the front, not on the back), which protects against oxidation. Finally all inscriptions are applied by pad printing using different clichés. For the application of the luminescent radium, Stern sent the dial to an external supplier. Only 2 companies existed in Switzerland to do this work. The Lanzett blued steel radium hands were most likely made by Fiedler Geneva, the renowned manufacturer of hands and sole supplier of Stern Frères in this period. The minimal oxidation, especially seen on the contact with the bezel and on the back are natural signs of aging that underline the untouched original condition of the object.


I invite you as well to take a look at my site www.watchcollector.lu for the current offer of vintage and independent timepieces. 

 
Kind regards.
Christian




 

 

Mittwoch, 9. November 2022

Urban Jürgensen, Derek Pratt, Peter Baumberger

 

Dear watch aficionado.
 
Urban Jürgensen, Derek Pratt, Peter Baumberger. These 4 beautiful timepieces by UJS are up for sale at my boutique www.watchcollector.lu
 
- 11CR Prototype full set
- reference 1 yellow gold with box, outer packaging, strap and buckle
- reference 3 pink gold NOS, full set
- reference 3 platinum NOS, full set
 
Kind regards.
Christian
 

 

 
 




 

Mittwoch, 2. November 2022

NEW available at www.watchcollector.lu -----> Urban Jürgensen reference 1

Dear watch aficionado.
 
NEW NEW NEW NEW available at my boutique www.watchcollector.lu this Urban Jürgensen reference 1 yellow gold with box, outer packaging, UJS strap and buckle:
 
The Urban Jürgensen reference 1 was the first timepiece released under Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt, after Peter Baumberger acquired Urban Jürgensen in 1979. The reference 1 was a limited edition of only 186 pieces, all in yellow gold and white gold with an exception of 15 platinum examples which were produced later in 2001, released in 1982 and produced until 1986. And there was one example that had been modified by George Daniels with his co-axial escapement.
 
The reference 1 is an automatic chronograph with triple date and moonphase and is based on the Zenith El Primero 3019 PHC. The watch embodies a traditional ethos of watchmaking, the hand-engine turned dial by Derek Pratt which is original Breguet frosted. The Breguet minutes, hours and seconds hands are hand-made of gold. The chronograph seconds hand, 30 minutes and 12 hours counter hands are as well hand-made of flame blued steel. It comes in a 40mm yellow gold case with screw caseback, waterproof, and each single teardrop lug is forged and welded to the case. The pusher at 9 o’clock is for the setting of the moonphase and the pusher at 8 o’clock is for the setting of the day. With the crown set on the second position, the date and month can be set.
 
This example shows the silver day and month windows in English. Whereas there are other examples with the day and month in blue color. The more, this timepiece comes in overall great condition and retains its original box, outer packaging, leather strap and buckle.
 
I welcome and will respond to your request on my address: info@watchcollector.lu
ChB
 
 
Movement:
Automatic chronograph lever movement
Zenith El Primero 3019 PHC Caliber 41.0
31 jewels , 36000 VPH
d 30mm, h 6.5mm
 
Dial:
Silver dial(bombé) with outer minute track and Derek Pratt’s typical and very fine patterns of engine turning with grain d’orges in the center and damier for the counters, 3 filets sautés for separating the different zones, satin-brushed circular hour circle with radial set Roman numerals, separate signature shield at “12”, all inscriptions are repeatedly black pad printed to create a voluminous smooth lay out
silver, original Breguet frost
bombé
guilloché main by Derek Pratt
apertures for day date and month
silvered discs with English calendar
aperture for the moon at “6”
gold Breguet hands
flame blued steel chronograph hands
 
Case:
18kt yellow gold with stepped lugs
solid satin-finished screw back
flat pushers and integrated crown
calendar pushers at “9” and “8”
each single lug forged and welded to the case
case and dial signed
d 40mm
waterproof
 
 
 



 

Mittwoch, 26. Oktober 2022

Patek Philippe 2584 ----> black épargne dial

 Dear watch aficionado.

Here a nice example of a Patek Philippe 2584 with black épargne dial, of which only two examples are known:

The dial is made by Cadran Stern with the complicated "épargne" technique, which means that first the base plate is gilted, then the signature, minuterie and small seconds are protected by a special lacquer, after that the dial is colored in a black galvanique bath. After the black color has dried, the protective lacquer is taken off. Later the hour baton indexes and the 12 o'clock indexes are added. The indexes are fixed by "pickage" and then leveled by "limage" as you can see on the photo of the dial from the back. This method called "pickage & limage" was used back then at that time. These methods, "épargne, pickage, limage" can be seen as well on famous dials as the Bao Dai.

I invite you as well to take a look at my site www.watchcollector.lu for the current offer of vintage and independent timepieces.

 
Kind regards.
Christian




Montag, 24. Oktober 2022

Rolex 6105 pink gold, black épargne dial

Dear watch aficionado.
 
Here a nice example of a Rolex 6105 pink gold with a beautiful black épargne dial:
 
These black dials were highly complicated to produce. They used the famous épargne method for the minuterie and swiss made signature. After that, the dial was treated in a black galvanic bath and then protected by a so called "sapon", which was a translucent lacquer used for protection against oxidation. The signature "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" & "Officially Certified Chronometer" are made with the décalque doré method by using red gold powder onto the sapon. The sapon on the present example has been "eaten" by the radium lume over the last 70 years, which adds tremendous character. By examining the back of the dial, one can see all the correct details to conclude that the dial is all original. The indexes are fixed by "pickage" and then leveled by "limage" as you can see on the photo of the dial from the back. This method called "pickage & limage" was used back then at that time. These methods, "épargne, pickage, limage" can be seen as well on famous dials as the Bao Dai. 
 
I invite you as well to take a look at my site www.watchcollector.lu for the current offer of vintage and independent timepieces.
 
Kind regards.
Christian
 
 


 

Freitag, 21. Oktober 2022

Sublime pair ----> Urban Jürgensen reference 5 & Patek Philippe 2584

 Dear watch aficionado.

A sublime pair of timepieces. Have a look at my site www.watchcollector.lu

  • Patek Philippe 2584 yellow gold with black dial, NOS condition. Only two known examples with black dial 
  • Urban Jürgensen reference 5 in yellow gold.


Both do look superb on the wrist.

Kind regards.
Christian

 




 

Dienstag, 18. Oktober 2022

SOON at my boutique ----> Urban Jürgensen ref 1, white window

 Dear watch aficionado.

SOON 🔜🔜🔜 at my boutique www.watchcollector.lu is this Urban Jürgensen reference 1, white window, english date.

Check back regularly.

Kind regards.
Christian