Samstag, 30. Juli 2022

Donnerstag, 7. Juli 2022

Different type of dials -----> épargne, silver satin, Stern & Lemmerich

Dear watch aficionado.

Herewith I would like to show you some different type of dials and how they should look in untouched condition without being restored. Here it is important as well always to take a look on the back of the dial and to examine it in all its details. But most important is to know where and what to look at.


Patek Philippe 2584, 36mm, 12-600AT with black épargne dial by Stern


The dial is made by Cadran Stern with the complicated "épargne" technique, which means that first the base plate is gilted, then the signature, minuterie and small seconds are protected by a special lacquer, after that the dial is colored in a black galvanique bath. After the black color has dried, the protective lacquer is taken off. Later the hour baton indexes and the 12 o'clock indexes are added. The back of the dial shows as well all the correct original details, as you can see on the photos below. More about this timepiece on the website of my boutique


Universal Genève Compax from 1942, 46mm with silver satin finish dial by Stern

The backside of this original, untouched dial bears the punch mark and code of the dial manufacturer Stern Frères, a master dial maker of the period, famous for their quality and magic of their dials due to little, yet important details in manufacturer. The blank plate is silver galvanized with a vertical satin finish. The recessed subdials are decorated with a fine snailing done by hand with a laze. The plate is covered with a mat transparent lacquer called "sapon" (only on the front, not on the back), which protects against oxidation. Finally all inscriptions are applied by pad printing using different clichés. For the application of the luminescent radium, Stern sent the dial to an external supplier. Only 2 companies existed in Switzerland to do this work. The Lanzett blued steel radium hands were most likely made by Fiedler Geneva, the renowned manufacturer of hands and sole supplier of Stern Frères in this period. The minimal oxidation, especially seen on the contact with the bezel and on the back are natural signs of aging that underline the untouched original condition of the object. More about this timepiece on the website of my boutique

Longines Calatrava, 1938, 38mm, black épargne dial by Lemmerich

This example has a lovely and rarely seen black épargne dial made by Lemmerich. These dials were very complicated to be made and do add tremendous value. The examination of the dial shows that it is all original and correctly stamped on the back with the correct signs of how this dial was made back in the day. More about this timepiece on the website of my boutique