Donnerstag, 30. April 2020

Details: Patek Philippe 2584 NOS

Dear watch aficionado.

To find one of these reference 2584 in NOS condition is almost impossible and in combination with black dial it is a really rare timepiece. The reference 2584 is powered by the legendary 12-600AT movement and comes in a case of 36mm.

The present example is simply amazing. Only 2 yellow gold with black dial watches do exist and this is the only one in truly NOS condition, as you can see from the images. A spectacular watch and certainly a great addition for every high-class collector.  The dial is made by Cadran Stern with the complicated "épargne" technique, which means that first the base plate is gilted, then the signature, minuterie and small seconds are protected by a special lacquer, after that the dial is colored in a black galvanique bath. After the black color has dried, the protective lacquer is taken off. Later the hour baton indexes and the 12 o'clock indexes are added.

This watch is as well available at my boutique, more information and photos upon request by e-mail at info@watchcollector.lu

I warmly invite you to take a look at the website of my boutique www.watchcollector.lu for the current offer of vintage and independent timepieces.




Montag, 20. April 2020

Audemars Piguet, the epitome of rare vintage chronographs 13VZAQ

Dear watch aficionado.

When it comes to vintage chronographs made by Audemars Piguet, the expression of rarity can be probably considered for each of the 307 chronographs produced by the watchmakers based in Le Brassus from 1930s to 1960s (overall production including moonphases, three compax, etc...)

BUT there is rare and then there is the epitome of rare as the much sought after reference 5503 with the moonphase and full calendar and chronograph. This reference was produced in only 5 pieces in combination of steel and pink gold case, one of these was re-cased in full yellow gold and belongs to the Audemars heritage collection today. All these 5 timepieces do have the legendary 13VZAQ movement ticking in their cases. Only 20! were produced with this movement double complication (chronograph, full calendar with moonphase) so 16 in full gold cases and 4 in steel/pink gold cases (considering the one that was re-cased).

 The 5503 is certainly the epitome of vintage watch collecting. Not only that there are only 4 with steel/pink gold case, but the more, all of these 4 had a different dial design. Whereas N°46538 is the only one with blue tachymeter in Miles, combining the beautiful art déco style carré hour indexes and 2tone shade of the dial (which is made by two different ways of finissage for the main dial and sub dials). The two tone shade is very discreet and looks amazing on this watch. The more it is the only watch of these 4 that still retains a copy of the original fabrication sheets plus a note by Charles Jean Stern about the production of the dial for this watch, which says that the dial is completely gravé émaillé.

Herewith I present you the photos of the 4 examples known. Number 5 (46 539) is not know by photos only by the description of the Audemars archives (steel/gold case with the calendar in English).


46 538, in the collection of one of the greatest collector. Photo by Audemars Piguet.






On this photo you can see very well the discreet 2tone shade


Production sheet of N°46 538, the only example of the five that still retains original production notes! Photo taken from the book "Le Cadran" by Dr. Helmut Crott


Note by Charles Jean Stern, which says that the dial need to be completely gravé émaillé



45 983, in the collection of one of the greatest collectors. Photo by Audemars Piguet.

46 931, the re-cased example, 18kt yellow gold. In the Heritage collection of Audemars Piguet (Inventory 1743). Photo by Audemars Piguet.




45 980, in the Audemars Heritage collection. Inventory 237




I have always been a big fan of all the Audemars Piguet vintage chronographs. They all look amazing, great design, superb dials but the most important fact is that they only produced 307! chronographs overall from the 1930s to the 1960s, as already mentioned before. So I think that every chronograph made by Audemars in these legendary decades can be considered as a rare example, especially when comparing production numbers with the other two highly collectable brands Patek Philippe and Rolex.

Herewith I would like to thank as well Raphaël Balestra from the Audemars Piguet Archives who helped me with the photos and information for my article. I can highly recommend you to buy their book "Complicated Wristwatches".

The more I can recommend you the book "Le Cadran" by Dr. Helmut Crott, you can order it online on this link

I would like to invite you as well to take a look at the website of my boutique for the current offer of vintage and independent timepieces www.watchcollector.lu

Kind regards.
Christian


Montag, 13. April 2020

Details: Rolex 1016 from 1960, silver lining

Dear watch aficionado.

I do love these early Rolex 1016 Explorers. Especially when they come in great condition as the present example. A highly interesting detail is the "silver lining" dial. The minuterie, Rolex and SCOC signature are in silver color. This silver color scheme can only be found on the early 1016 examples. Later they have the "gilt" color scheme. These "silver lining" dials are rare to find.

 The more, these dials were made with the "épargne" technique (later dial "décalque"), which was a highly demanding technique for the dial maker to get a perfect result. This means, that first the base plate is "silvered" (later examples "gilted"), then polished, then the minuterie and Rolex Oyster Perpetual EXPLORER are protect by a special lacquer, then the dial is colored in a galvanic black bath. Later when the dial is dried, the protective lacquer of the minuterie and Rolex OPE is taken off so you can see the silver color from the base plate.

These early "silver lining" dial 1016s are rare to find, and even rarer in great condition.

This watch is as well available at my boutique, more information and photos upon request by e-mail at info@watchcollector.lu

I warmly invite you to take a look at the website of my boutique www.watchcollector.lu for the current offer of vintage and independent timepieces.

Kind regards.
Christian






Donnerstag, 9. April 2020

Lange 1 steel ---> up for sale at Crott auctions

Dear watch aficionado.

I have always been a big fan of Lange & Söhne watches. There are some Lange pieces that should be in every high class collection: an early Datograph from around 2000, a Dufour Datograph (named after the famous independent watch maker Phillipe Dufour, pink gold case black dial) and the legendary Lange 1 steel. For the latest, I had it on my radar already quite early as you can see in these articles from the past Crott auction 2014, Christie's 2014, Christie's 2016.

Regarding the last results of Lang 1 in steel, and the overall evolution of the price for these legendary timepieces, it might be not the worst idea to buy one as soon as you get the chance as to wait too long. The last one sold at Crott auctions went for 220 000€ (the most complete set that had been sold yet) and the one at Phillips, which was in NOS condition went for 340 000$.

Now I have seen that another Lange 1 steel comes up for sale at the next Crott auctions. This might give you the impression that you could find any day an example somewhere around the corner, but that is quite wrong. It is said that only around 20 examples were made and there had been yet 9 (including this one) on the market. So, if ever you want one for your collection, this might be the one to go for. Because nobody knows when the next one will come up for sale or how many will come up for sale and then as well at which price. But one thing might be for sure, the price will probably turn more to the northern direction then the opposite.






Details: Rolex 6265 Big Red, NOS condition

Dear watch aficionado.

Now a days it is hard to find these Daytonas in really perfect condition. This 6265 black dial Big Red certainly is one of these examples. Perfect dial, perfect case, comes with guarantee and leaflet. I love the 6265 steel bezel in this combination with the black Big Red dial, it really has some presence on the wrist.

Together with this early Rolex 6265 tropical it would make a great pair for every high class collection.

This watch is as well available at my boutique, more information and photos upon request by e-mail at info@watchcollector.lu

I warmly invite you to take a look at the website of my boutique www.watchcollector.lu for the current offer of vintage and independent timepieces.

Kind regards.
Christian